The magnificence of Batasiolo Barolo

The Dogliano family has lived and farmed in the Langhe region for 5 generations, and 5 decades ago acquired the historic Kiola winery taking over 5 “beni”,  or estate vineyards, placing some of the top vineyards in Barolo in their capable hands. The current generation of 5 brothers and 3 sisters have not genetically altered the rich inheritance these 5 “cru” vineyards have given them.

Beni di Batasiolo presented their wines, representing each of these top notch plots to the LA Wine Writers last November. One of my favorite Italian restaurants- Angelini Osteria provided the perfect food and ambiance. 

Piemonte, located in the top-left of the boot, in north-west Italy is isolated by mountains. Nestled in the grandeur of the Italian/Swiss Alps, (and the Ligurian Appinnes), is where we find the Langhe wine region. Within Langhe lies Barolo and its sister Barbaresco. Not too long ago not “connected” with reliable WiFi, nor A/C, Piemonte was rarely visited by tourists. One of my teachers, hailing from Piemonte noted, as there were not many people going in, similarly not too many left. We have many Italians in the U.S., but do you know any Piemontese ? 

Nebbiolo is of course the regal grape of Barolo, and any Barolo wine you buy, will be 100% Nebbiolo. Sometimes compared to Pinot Noir, as its color is light, it has substantially more tannin which can surprise the palate with is heft. This is not a “light” wine. 

A regal wine because of its historical association with kings, including the first king of Italy, Barolo has its rightful place as the “King of Wines”. Get this - King Vittorio Emmanuel’s son,  Emanuel Alberto Guerrieri, planted the grape in Fontanafredda. Fontanafredda is one of the largest producers of Barolo today. 

There are 5 towns that produce 90% of Barolo DOCG. These are: 

Barolo

La Morra 

Castigione Falletto

Serralunga d’Alba

Monforte d’Alba

I mention these because you will see them on the label, and can know certain characteristics to expect. The soils in Central Valley communes of Barolo and La Morra have more clay, so you can expect softer wines than those in the Serralunga Valley where you find the communes of Castigione Falletto, Serralunga d’Alba and Monforte d’Alba. Those soils are heavier in sand and limestone, and the wines tend to need more age to harmonize the acid and soften the tannin. 

Back to the 5 beni of Beni di Batasiolo. Not 5 towns, but these are the individual vineyard sights owned by Batasiolo. We experienced each of these Barolos as distinct wines of these 5 benis:

Bofani 

Brunate

Cerequio

Boscareto

Briccolina 

All of the 2013 vintage, each spoke of it’s place:

Batasiolo Barolo Bussia Vigneto Bofani 

This hails from  Monforte d’ Alba, and the aromas were very floral, leading to a full body with a lovely streak of licorice that was so nice with my Ahi Tuna Tartar Crostino with pistachio, covered in arugula. Yes - Barolo with fish. The fish was rich enough to stand strong side by side with the wine.  Also great with the white truffled pizza!

Batasiolo Barolo DOCG Brunate 

The dusty, earthy nose on this one intrigued me, and left me wanting to bury my nose deeper. Juicy berry and leather on the palette washed down my Hanger Steak beautifully. 

Batasiolo Barolo DOCG Cerequio (La Morra) 

The Barolo from La Morra are known to be lighter, a bit less tannic. I found everything  in the nose of this wine - earth, rose, violet, mineral. I could breathe it in all day. 

Batasiolo Barolo DOCG Boscareto (Serralunga d’Alba)

Serralunga d’Alba are heavier, bolder wines, and I found this one exceptionally elegant with enough lift of acid to balance a full body. 

Batasiolo Barolo DOCG Briccolina

This is the most age worthy of the wines, and I know it’s worthy, because in addition to the 2013, we also tasted the 1996. The 2013 had a strong backbone which could hold up with the richest of foods, like a ribeye steak or juicy sausages and peppers. 

The way the 1996 mellowed would allow for a relaxing and special sip on the patio with a hunk of Parm and charcuterie. 

Don’t sleep on these tremendous wines from these 5 special beni if you see them. They are special wines, and deserve attention.

Also available from this winery is a lovely white Gavi di Gavi - which I tried, and non-specified vineyard Barolos, which are more affordably priced, as well as several additional varietal wines. 

Batasiolo.com